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Eleanor Butler Alexander in 1903, aged 14. The full glory of her costume does not show. She wore a blue serge sailor suit, a covert cloth jacket and a hat trimmed with a bunch of cherries and a red velvet bow. On her feet were orthopedic shoes, to one of which was attached a brace to cure a floating cartilage in her right knee.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1903
A woman’s tennis costume in 1903. Eleanor Butler Roosevelt has written “Jenni’s costume” under the photograph.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1903
Columbia and another woman, representing South America, ride side-saddle on a buffalo to the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, New York.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1901-05-08
Columbia welcomes a woman labeled “South America” to the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, New York.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1901-05-08
The domestic servant evolves from country housewife to an employed domestic through seven scenes beginning with the barefooted housewife receiving “the summons to the land of the free.” In scene two she is greeted by relatives who presumably coach her in the fine art of choosing her employers, which she does in scene three “with haughty discrimination.” In scenes four and five she fills her leisure time with social activities, such as attending church and enjoying social gatherings at home. The central figure, scene six, shows her as an over-sized and defiant “Kitchen Tyrant” with four well-dressed women, on their knees, pleading with her. The final scene shows her downfall, “a ready and delightful solution of the whole problem; – one that we are all coming to.” It shows a tall skyscraper, “Family Apartment House” offering “more comforts than at home – no more wrangling with servants – meals, laundry work, valets, chambermaids, and all domestic service provided by the management.” In the background is a row of low, brownstone-like walk-ups, “This row of dwellings to let cheap. No reasonable offer refused.”
A frequent theme of cartoons in the 1880s and ’90s was the “servant problem.” It was mostly related to maids and kitchen help, and mostly affected middle-class families. This was still a time when people of modest means strove to have domestic help as a basic part of their households. The “Problem” had several aspects: the difficulty in finding competent, or any, servants; the problems inherent in hiring recent immigrants, especially regarding language and social skills; retention of servants and their frequent demands for independence. Cartoonists hit upon the anomaly of servants ruling the households they were paid to serve.
A fashionably dressed young woman holds on to a Christmas tree as Puck chops it down with an axe.
On the artistic staff of Puck, Nankivell was the cartoonist most influenced by the flat colors and heavy outlines of “Japonisme,” and the prevailing poster look in popular art.
William Loeb acknowledges a letter from the Brooks Brothers apparel company on behalf of Edith Kermit Carow Roosevelt. Mrs. Roosevelt would like a sleeveless sateen-backed waistcoat, and will send in a waistcoat of her own for measurements.
Library of Congress Manuscript Division
1904-10-19
E. Philbrook writes to President Roosevelt regarding the Mrs. Morris Incident and individuals who oppose the treatment of the finely-dressed Morris. Philbrook states that attire does not pardon unbecoming behavior and that if people are held to different standards due to their attire, “then are we going back to those feudal ages.” She commends Roosevelt for not discriminating and showing preferential treatment to Morris.
Library of Congress Manuscript Division
1906-01-18
A shabbily dressed woman addresses a man who is wearing an apron, holding an infant, and standing at the front door of his home. In the background, a dog with its tail between its legs enters a doghouse to hide. Caption: Dusty Maude–Is dere any lady-folks about de house? Timid Househusband–No-o – no, ma’am; they have all gone to a primary meeting. Dusty Maude–Den set out de best dere is in de pantry, an’ don’t do any screamin’, or I’ll clip yer whiskers!
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1895-03-06
This vignette cartoon depicts the tendency of Americans to overdo everything, such as hosting “large receptions in small houses,” women’s fashions and their “elevation and advancement idea,” “Arctic exploration,” the “forcing process with our children’s educations,” and the “Bicycle Boom.” Caption: A few random examples of the general tendency towards overdoing things, viz.: overdone fashions, overdone county fair exhibits, overdone high buildings, overdone Sunday editions, etc., etc.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1896-01-15
A young woman wearing bloomers says good night to a young man at the front door. The young man’s mother, also wearing bloomers and holding a newspaper or magazine called “The Advanced Woman,” has come down the stairs to ask when the young woman will be leaving. Caption: Stern Parent–Willy, isn’t that Miss Bloomers going soon? – it’s nearly eleven o’clock! / Son–Yes, Mama; she’s just saying good night!
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1895-12-25
Puck holds mistletoe over the head of a young woman who is reading a magazine or newspaper.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1895-12-04
A female figure with wings rises from the flames of summer romances that are burning out as the season comes to an end. She leaves behind many broken-hearted men on the beach at a summer resort. Caption: She rises gayly from the ashes of her season’s conquests, to continue her deadly work as the “Winter Girl” of the near future.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1895-09-18
A woman is denied the opportunity to vote because she is wearing a dress and a hat that are too wide for the narrow booths labeled, “Ballots must be prepared in these booths.” A policeman is standing on the left, and, in the background, election officials are standing over the ballot box for “Election District No. 13.” Caption: How can she vote, when the fashions are so wide, and the voting booths are so narrow?
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1894-06-06
An old woman sits on a bench, holding a purse labeled “G.O.P.,” with Benjamin Harrison on the left and William McKinley on the right, vying for her attentions. Caption: Old Party (coyly)–Oh! you presidential aspirants are such flirts!
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1894-06-13
An old woman with a broom labeled “Spoils System” evicts from the “Democratic Home” a young woman labeled “Civil Service Reform” carrying a bag labeled “Civil Service Laws.” On the street are Benjamin Harrison, Whitelaw Reid, and Thomas B. Reed, laughing. In the background, on the left, is the “Republican Home” with an old woman labeled “G.O.P.” looking out the window. A large padlock labeled “Spoils System” bars the gate. On the right is the “Mugwump Home” where a woman is standing with open arms to welcome the young woman labeled “Civil Service Reform.” Caption: But she will always find a hearty welcome and kind treatment at the old reliable independent home.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1894-06-20
Uncle Sam sits on a bench with a young woman wearing a coat labeled “Wilson Bill” and a hat labeled “Tariff Reform.” She is holding a bull dog on her lap that is wearing a collar labeled “Income Tax.” Caption: Uncle Sam–Well, you’re a nice girl, but I don’t keer fer yer pet!
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1894-05-16
An old woman labeled “G.O.P.” sits on a throne with her arms around two men labeled “Monopolist” and “Fraudulent Pension Grabber” who are winking at the viewer. Caption: Mrs. G.O.P. – “These are my jewels!”
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1894-04-25
Two young women ice skate and tow a sleigh in which Puck is riding, holding a Christmas tree.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1894-12-05
A fashionably dressed young woman dances before a small gathering at a country dance, where one old man, in particular, is mesmerized by her appearance and seems to be making a fool out of himself before the others who look on with chagrin.
Library of Congress Prints and Photographs
1893-12-06